Located in the heart of the Camargue, in the south of France, Saintes Maries de la Mer captivates with its rich heritage, vibrant traditions, and stunning landscapes. From Romani pilgrimages to lively festivals and unspoiled nature, this unique town offers an authentic glimpse into the soul of the Camargue. Whether by bike, on horseback, or on foot, every visitor is in for an unforgettable experience.
Saintes Maries de la Mer, the capital of the Camargue
Saintes Maries de la Mer is the capital of the Camargue region, a popular seaside resort and an important place of pilgrimage for the gypsy community. It is, in short, a very interesting town, a place where time seems to blend perfectly with age-old traditions, vibrant culture, and stunning landscapes. Its whitewashed homes were built around its disproportionately big church during the XI and XII centuries and the town centre boast beautiful narrow paved streets that lead to the sandy beaches and, further afield, the vast expanses of reeds and horse and bull farms.
After cycling for hours through the wild marshlands of the Camargue, Saintes Maries de la Mer almost takes you by surprise as you approach. The famous church can be seen 10 kilometres outside of the town and was strategically built from the IX to the XI century as a look out for pirates who terrorised the seas and threatened invasion.
When is the gypsy pilgrimage in Saintes Maries de la Mer?
Saintes Maries de la Mer is a pilgrimage destination for the Gypsy community throughout Europe. They gather here yearly for a religious festival in honour of Saint Sara, also known as Sara-la-Kali (Sara the black). According to the legend, dark-skinned Saint Sara is said to have possibly been the Egyptian servant of the three Marys – Mary Jacob, Mary Salomé and Mary Magdalene who fled Palestine to escape persecution. After the death of the 3 Mary’s, Sara drifted on a boat at sea and arrived on the shores of Provence, in Saintes Maries de la Mer. Every year, on May 24th, the Romani people gather in the town, setting up camp in the streets, squares and along the seafront. The congregation lasts up to 10 days for this is an important celebration and many children are baptised in the church. The statue of Sara is carried by the Gypsies from the church to the sea and then back to the church, accompanied by music, dance, and the ringing of the church bells.
Whether or not you buy into the mythology, you can't deny that the history here is captivating. The town's crowning jewel, the Eglise des Saintes Maries, is a fortified church that dates back to the 9th century. The church has an incredible ambiance with its Romanesque architecture and ancient crypt, where the relics of the Three Marys are said to be kept. Climbing up to the top of the church offers spectacular panoramic views of the rooftops and the glimmering Mediterranean Sea
Saintes Maries de la Mer: enjoy a lively cultural festival on your self-guided Provence cycling trip
Beyond the Romani festival, the town keeps the Camargue traditions alive through a variety of activities. The Feria de la Mer, held in July, is another highlight where bullfighting aficionados come together to celebrate the region’s bullfighting heritage. However, if bullfighting isn't your thing, don't worry – there’s something for everyone. From horse shows to abrivado (a running of the bulls), Saintes Maries de la Mer brims with excitement and tradition.
The horse festival
Around the 14th July for 3 days, the emblematic white horse of the Camargue is the star of the show. The streets of the town are alive with processions, live music, equestrian films and books. The horse and bull farms are the beating heart of the Camargue, and this festival is a real event to witness on your Provence cycling tour.
Camargue Plurielle
Bull fighting still plays a large part in the culture of the region, though it is less dangerous and brutal that the Spanish version can be. Around August 15th, famous matadors from Spain and Portugal show off their bull fighting skills in the arenas to the soundtrack of gypsy music. The main square in the town is transformed into an open-air market full of local produce and handmade souvenirs.
La Fête Votive
Perhaps the best festival to enjoy on your cycling tour in France is the Fete Votive. Around the 3rd week in June, all the locals, young and old, are dressed to the nine’s and adorn the streets and squares of the town with music, colour and dance. The gypsy spirit is ever present, and the horse and bull rearing culture is centre stage. A great way to discover the traditions that this town holds so dear, a real party atmosphere for all to enjoy.
Festival d’Abrivado
Most festivals take place during the summer months, but there is a winter festival, a rare occurrence in France but one not to be missed if you are enjoying a cycling tour in France in the late season. On November 11th, the day begins on the beach with a huge communal breakfast, then the bells ring at 11am and the horse race along the sand begins. The ‘Camargue cowboys’ have 6km of sandy beach to show off their skills, strutting their stuff on horseback whilst attempting to control a herd of black bulls. The aim is to get the bulls from the beach to the arena in the town centre without the bulls escaping.
Nature and Adventures
Right on the edge of the magnificent Camargue National Park, Saintes Maries de la Mer is a paradise for nature lovers. Imagine expansive wetlands, dramatic salt marshes, and the famous pink flamingos elegantly trolling the waters.
The Camargue is renowned for its exceptional biodiversity, making it a haven for wildlife enthusiasts. This unique region hosts over 400 species of birds, including the iconic greater flamingos that grace its wetlands. You'll also find an array of other bird species, from herons to ibis, that create a birdwatcher's paradise. The flora is equally diverse, with saltmarsh vegetation, wild lavender, and samphire creating a stunning natural tapestry. The unique environment also supports wild boars, beavers, and the famous Camargue horses and bulls, making every journey through this landscape a delightful encounter with nature.
For those with a sense of adventure, horseback riding on the iconic white Camargue horses is a must-do activity. There's nothing quite like riding through the wetlands, salt marshes, and along the sandy beach with such majestic creatures. And speaking of beaches, the town’s sprawling sandy shores are perfect for some sunbathing, swimming, or simply unwinding by the Mediterranean.
Explore by Bike
A great way to soak in the beauty of Saintes Maries de la Mer and its surrounding villages is by bike. The town and the entire Camargue region are blessed with an extensive network of flat, scenic cycling paths that are perfect for riders of all levels. Biking allows you to easily explore the charming narrow streets, reach hidden corners of the Camargue National Park, and get up close and personal with the region's stunning wildlife like the famous wild horses and pink flamingos. Plus, with the fresh Mediterranean breeze, you’ll feel a sense of freedom and connection with nature that's hard to beat.
Our bike tour leads you on a full exploration, starting in the Roman city of Arles, the gateway to the Camargue. Spend time wandering the pretty streets of the city, taking in the impressive sight of the Amphitheatre. Soak up the vibrant city life before you head into the wilderness and vast expanse of the Camargue. Although it may feel as though you are far from the rest of the world, Avignon and Marseille are just over 1h by car.
Local Flavors and Shopping
When it comes to food, the cuisine in Saintes Maries de la Mer brings you the best of Provençal flavors blended with a bit of Spanish influence. Seafood lovers, in particular, are in for a treat with dishes like bullinada (a local fish stew) and gardianne de taureau (bull stew). Don't forget to visit the charming local markets and boutiques that line the narrow streets of the town. Here you can pick up some unique souvenirs, local crafts, and perhaps a bottle of fine Camargue wine to take home.
A Final Word
Saintes Maries de la Mer is truly a place where history, culture, and nature come together in perfect harmony. Whether you're here for the mesmerizing legends, the colorful festivals, or just to soak in the serene landscapes, there's always something wonderful to discover.
See our Provence self-guided cycling holiday through the Camargue to Saintes Maries tour here!
