The diary of a nocturnal birdwatching tour in the high altitude plains of the Vercors
It is 3:30am and the alarm clock is ringing. After a quick coffee, we head outside into the coolness of the night air. Into the car, and we drive through the zigzag forest roads of La Coche. A red deer crosses the forest track in slow and imposing footsteps. We are alone on the small gravel carpark. It is much cooler here on the high Plateau of the Vercors and in the light of the moon, we can make out the silhouette of the imposing Grand Veymont. The forest path is still covered in part by patches of hard snow. After wrapping up warm, binoculars around our necks and cameras in our backpacks we are prepared for the birding excursion and begin our nocturnal walk in the glow of our headlamps.
The Rachier forest track offers a slow and gentle climb. Nearby, the Boreal Owl sings his song. With a little patience, we can observe this small bird. In the distance, we can hear other Boreal Owls answering his song. In a few weeks, the females will be nesting in the abandoned nests of the Black Woodpecker and the forest will be silent once again.
A guided birdwatching tour and nocturnal wildlife.
The forested and slightly steep part of the track is over and done with. It’s chilly, and our muscles need warming up. The night is perfectly clear, and we barely need our headlamps to lead us on the wide trail. A red fox yelps as we approach, the nearby barking of a roe deer followed by the sound of hooves on rocky ground pierces through the night. We arrive at a vast flat area of alpine meadows dotted with coniferous groves and rock piles of various sizes. The large patches of snow covering the grass shimmer in the moonlight.
We continue onwards on a flat, open trail. In a few minutes we reach the Gerland forest hut and the fountain where common frogs have hatched. It is still night, and time for us to find a camouflaged shelter at the foot of the small grassy slope overlooking the high altitude Gerland plain. Once in place, we must try to move as little as possible and fight off the chill of the night. The sun will soon be rising east of the plain. The song of a Eurasian Pygmy-Owl can be heard close by as he swoops down and lands on a bush right in front of us. Despite the darkness, we can make out his silhouette.
His metronome trill is suddenly interrupted by a loud, nasal sound about 30m from our shelter, followed by rapid wing flapping. More cooing can be heard just a few metres in front of us and we can just make out a small movement in the branches. Suddenly, a large shadow falls from the tree and lands on a patch of snow about 50m from us. A quick look through the telescope and I can admire its deep black body contrasted with a bright red bushy eyebrow and immaculate white underside of tail: a black grouse! This is what a France birding tour is all about!
He is soon joined by other males, and the parade begins. With loud cooing and shouting, the males begin their dance of seduction, facing each other, bending, jumping on the spot and defying each other's gaze with an erect chest. From our lookout, we can count 6 grouse parading through the snowy meadow. It is a truly spectacular show!
Soon, the first rays of sunlight begin to appear, and our guided birdwatching tour is coming to an end. The birds finish the show and, like exhausted gladiators leaving the ring, they fly away with a resounding rubbing of wings and perch far away in the forest. It is time for us to leave our shelter, transfixed but amazed by the unique natural spectacle that we have just witnessed. Before long, the coffee and tea will be heating at the foot of the Gerland hut and it will be time for us to return to reality.
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